Tuesday, November 15, 2011

What is it like for me after 6 months of life in Cuenca?

In Portland, OR  4/2011  with my daughter Tenley who lives in Oregon with her husband and 3 yr old son.

 A few months before I moved to Ecuador, like...oh, last January, for instance, I was full of excitement and apprehension about moving to Ecuador.  How foreign would it be? How much would my husband and I stand out? How difficult would it feel to live in another continent, another country, another culture? Would there be hostility toward someone from the United States? Would there be a lot of crime? I had lot of excitement about having an overseas living experience, at last, something I'd dreamed about throughout my life.  And I had a LOT of anxiety about what was ahead in this adventure.

Well, life is made up of each plodding day we experience as we get up in the morning until we go to bed at night.  The journey we each create is what is important. That is made up of how we face each day.

My husband and I have been here 6 months now.  We each find Cuenca to be amazing in so many ways. We both love it here. It is beautiful, calm, friendly, interesting, just to name a few things we cherish.  The tropical fruits and vegetables are to die for. An avocado a day costing about 30 cents is not a bad habit to cultivate.  The intrigue of learning to blend in with a new culture is very challenging in a good way.  Every day, Lenny makes a delicious smoothie from different healthy fruits, many we had never heard of before. Babaco, guyanaba, taxo, and pitajaya to name a few.

Of course  there are things I still need to adjust to:  improve my ability to speak Espanol, increase my level of patience when things take much much MUCH longer here -  to name 2.  But generally it has been an easier transition than I had expected. I still feel excitement and an eagerness to greet each new day but my anxiety about many issues has dropped significantly.

Mi esposo, Lenny, has flourished here.  He grew up in Brooklyn so he loves going to little shops each day and speaking Espanol with the shop keepers.  He says it reminds him of the New York City of his childhood. So after living for 20 years in the suburbs in Oregon, he is in a city again, shopping each day for that day's needs, exploring new streets and tiny shops around each corner, meeting people everywhere he goes. By practicing his rudimentary Espanol daily and asking others to teach him a word, he is now able to communicate basics in his new language.
Lenny formed an IPad/IPod/IPhone Users Group which is flourishing

 Here is my take on the subject of Espanol, btw: Question: does one need to speak the language in order to thrive here?  Answer: Absolutely!  Even a little Espanol gains kinder, gentler encounters.  People light up when they hear you try to speak their language.  It seems only fair since we are in their country. We came as guests and elected to live in a Spanish-speaking culture so learning the language is a basic building block to having an enriched life experience. And you will feel more comfortable because you can communicate and understand what is going on around you. These are my opinions.  Yours may be different.

By walking every day 3-5 miles, Lenny has lost weight and trimmed down to a "fighting weight".

 By speaking to shop keepers whenever he can, he has improved/expanded/increased his knowledge of Espanol by a TON!  We take lessons 3 times per week. We delight in our Espanol teacher, Rebeca, who is a bundle of non-stop energy. She praises progress, encourages, nudges and we learn!

Len also enjoys meeting expats and touristas as he moves around the city.  Frequently people ask him for directions. In all of the days he has been here, he has only encountered a couple of negative comments and those were minor.

I also have met wonderful ex-pats, visitors and Cuencanas. The community of ex-pats is generally friendly and helpful, keeping an eye out for each other in times of personal duress. In this city, people are generally friendly, kind, courteous and love to hear that we are enthused about Cuenca and Ecuador in general. I mean exceptionally friendly and courteous.  In my first 61 years, I lived in Idaho, Washington, California, Virginia, Washington, D.C. and Oregon.  I am an outgoing, friendly person.  I have met many people throughout my life who are interesting, helpful and kind.  I also have met my share of rude, self-centered, mean people.  Both types of people live all over the world, of course.  Yet, here in Cuenca I have experienced such an unusually high percentage of friendly, helpful people that it stands out for me.

So Lenny is adapting very well.  What about me?

Well, before we came I knew the hardest thing for me would be missing our 3 young grandchildren, our grown kids, extended family and friends.  And indeed, that IS the hardest thing.  Skype calls help tremendously.  Hearing a loved one's voice is reassuring but seeing your loved one right in their living room going about everyday life is a wonderful boost and feels more like an actual visit. I can see how each of the 3 young grandchild has grown. Each child can interact with me at their own level.

I retired early a short time before we moved here so adjusting to retirement is also new.  I LOVE it!  I have time to walk by the river, focus on a quilt for an entire day, meet up with people for lunch or hunt for a shop that sells tumeric. Many days Len and I head out to explore a slice of the city.  It is a terrific life.

I gave myself 6 mo to a year to become brave about going out in a foreign city alone without knowing the language or the territory.  I'm doing pretty well with that.  I go out alone 2 or 3 days each week just to test my Espanol with people I encounter and to do a little exploring and a bit of shopping.  At first, I went out with Lenny who knew enough Espanol to ask for needed items and ask the cost of things.  Now I can do that by myself. It is even starting to feel kind of normal.  I do not get so anxious when I'm surprised by a phrase.  I rarely feel like a deer frozen in the headlights if someone asks me a question. I know that continual study is required to master even basics of a new language.

Last week end, Len and I walked into Diez de Augosto, a large market in El Centro (the central part of the city) where local people are selling vegetables, meats, eggs, etc., in little open stalls.  I like to go there but this was the first time I shopped by myself, negotiating both language and charges while Len chatted with our friend Bill on another floor and tried not to be concerned. I did great!  Ecuador uses the US dollar so that part is easy.  Understanding how much each item is when I'm told in Espanol is a bit more challenging.  But I had fun. And I'll take longer next week.  I really like interacting with the indigenous people who work so hard (and live on so little).  Talk about a work ethic - WOW!

Another thing that strikes me is how much value is placed on family here.  It cannot be said enough when contrasted with how remote many US families tend to be: geographically, emotionally and even physically - not giving frequent hugs, for example.  Ecuadorians cannot understand why anyone would move here away from their family.  It simply would not be done by most Ecuadorians.  Each day, many many citizens close down shops midday and head home to have lunch with family.  Almuerzo (lunch time) is the main meal of the day and is about a 2 hour break - roughly 1-3 pm or so.

Another thing that takes some getting used to is that most stores do not open until 9:30 am.  Can you imagine Safeway or Kroeger's not opening until 9:30 each day?  It seems to be part of a more relaxed or tranquilo way of life Ecuadorian's enjoy. Yes, some people are up early rushing to work but many people begin their work day a little later than a lot of US citizens do. There is not the same push here to make every possible penny and quickly spend every penny to consume ever more "stuff" or cosas.

I have a time line in my head - a casual one- of when I plan to begin different tasks or mark some milestones on my way to being fully acclimated to this new culture.  So far, this gentle approach with myself is paying off in several ways.  Less pressure, less anxiety, enjoying things unfolding as I am ready to face each new challenge.

I have not learned my way around this "very easy to navigate" city.  Why?  Well, not driving is part of it. Street names that seem difficult to pronounce and hard to recall - both a language and a memory issue - factor in.  But learning this city is just about next on my agenda.  Street names are sticking in my head better and I can now pronounce Juan Jaramillo and Remegio Crespo well enough that taxi drivers understand me - progress!

Another challenge here for me has been that I am allergic to wheat (and barley and rye) so I eat gluten free.  It is not hard to do these days in the US.  Many convenient gluten free products and an increased understanding of celiac disease have made it an easier task in the US.  Here, although several non-gluten grains are grown & exported here (red quinoa, milo), it has been a struggle to find restaurants and merchants who understand the issues.  Consequently, we eat most meals at home, which is ok but a little limiting.  Locating items I need to bake breads made from other grains and cook gluten free meals has been a bit like hunting for a needle in a haystack. But I've been determined to succeed for my health. The positive side of this is that I am gathering resources for others who have similar needs.

And good news today: a new restaurant has opened that has gluten free items.  It is named Nectar and is located on Beningo Malo near Gran Columbia  It is vegetarian. Lunch costs $2.50 and includes fresh made juice, a main course with rice and vegetables and a tiny dessert. The owners are Greek and Ecuadorian and are showing all the signs of being great "inn keepers". I am SO excited there is another restaurant that understands the gluten free concept.  It joins El Maize, in my book, as a place to seek out.

 If others know of different Cuenca restaurants where the staff understand  "sin trigo" needs, please let me know.

So there is my 6 month update.  I love being here.  I have homesickness for family and friends. I miss some conveniences but all is outweighed by living this incredible "excellent life adventure".

Have a terrific week!
Luego,
Sharon

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Layering the quilt and Pacific Sea Bass for dinner

Today's post comes as Cuenca,  in the Province of Azuay, is about to conclude 5 days of celebration of their 195 year independence from Quito (sort of like Idaho becoming a state separate from the Oregon Territory -which was in 1863). Many visitors, many people off work,crowded parks, stores closed, fireworks, a terrific arts and crafts festival  -  all were part of this week.






[NOTE: In today's post, I added some Espanol phrases to translate what I wrote (just before the phrase) in English.  Along with my budding skills in Espanol, I used Google Translate a lot so... forgive me, Rebe and mi amiga in Espana Sully. Maybe one year from now, I'll be able to translate correctly myself as I keep learning Espanol.]


This is the king size quilt top I'm working onand writing about today.  Notice the cat just can't seem to relax.   The heating pad is not on - she just loves to lie on it.


What a successful day for me today!  I got up early to clean the hardwood floor where I planned to lay out the king size quilt to be layered.  Next I spread out the batting and measured it.  It seemed huge at 124" x 118" (315 cm x 300 cm).  My quilt top is 101" x  101"   (256.5 cm x 256.5 cm) so a queen size batting would not be wide enough.  I trimmed the batting to be a few inches larger than the quilt top and marked the center.  Picked it up and laid it aside.  
My friends, Bernardita, Maria Elena and Rebeca arrived right on time to help me layer this huge quilt. Estefi could not come but promised to help on another layering.


Just before they arrived, it was time to mark the center of my backing that I had spliced together a bit on Monday.  I bought 8 1/2 yards of fabric but because of the width of the quilt top, I needed 9 yards.  So I got creative and spliced in an orange "racer stripe". With that and a couple of extra seams it was completed and ready to go.  I marked the center and laid it out on the floor. 
Fabric Note aside: I bought this fabric online from equilter and had it shipped to Florida and then on to us by the service Correos.  It takes a long time (2-4 weeks from Florida) but we have had good luck with things arriving. No duty is charged as long as the package is under a certain value and weight. We pay $5/pound on any package that arrives in Florida to come on to us.




Just then, my wonderful "quilt crew" arrived to help. Three wonderful women of Cuenca: Maria Elena, Rebeca and Bernardita worked hard and offered their opinions throughout the process, making it really fun. I love that each woman expresses her opinion and is not too shy to speak up if something did not make sense or did not seem right. One question Bernardita and her mother Maria Elena had was "why are you putting this beautiful fabric on the back of the quilt where it won't be seen.  I pointed out that it would make the "bedspread quilt" versatile as it would be a two sided "bedspread quilt", giving the bedroom a different look when flipped over.  They both understood and could see the advantage of that. 


So we got on the floor on hands and knees and each one of us had a corner/quarter to work to get it smooth, work out wrinkles and uneven spots, while keeping it centered. Everyone worked hard for about an hour. Even with windows open, it seemed very warm (mucho caliente), although it was not much over 70 degrees outside.  This step in creating a quilt is hard work, mucho MUCHO trabajo.




Bernardita is an architect so she took right to the process. I can see that she would be a great project manager because she quickly saw what was needed and grasped the whole process as well as individual parts.  She is also a very dear perfectionist so she kept us working to get every wrinkle out.   When we had all of the layering completed, there was one stubborn wrinkle that we worked and reworked without success.






 Finally I said sweetly   "Bernardita, if I were entering this quilt in an art festival, I'd keep working to resolve this.  But this is going on my bed so it does not have to be perfect.  This is just for our bed. (esto es solo para la cama).  And when I see that wrinkle, it will remind me of our time together today - its a good thing. (Y cuando veo que se arrugan, se me recordara de nuestro tiempo juntos hoy en dia - es una buena cosa.)     

Rebe and Maria Elena sighed, Bernardita understood and we decided it was "good enough"
lo suficientemente bueno, and will be gorgeous. My quilts are not made to be hung on a wall, generally.  They are made to be used and washed, enjoyed and hopefully cherished by the owner. I actually think a few imperfections do not detract and even show a slice of humanity in the creator. Like life - nothing is without flaws." (Translates roughly to"Mis colchas no estan hechas para ser colgado en una pared, en general. Estan hechos para ser utilizados y se lavo, disgrutado y espero apreciados por el proprietario.  De heco, creo algunas imperfecciones no restan, 3 incluso mostrar una porcion de la humanidad en el creador.  como la vida - no esta exenta de defectos.")    


Yes, I may be justifying not being a perfectionist, not creating perfect beauty, but that's my philosophy and I'm sticking to it. 


This was such a wonderful gift these 3 women gave me - to help with a project that is pretty impossible to do alone, crawling around on the hard floor, trying to get each part straight and smooth. (I hope translateGoogle got this right!  "Este fue un maravilloso regalo estas tres chicas me dio - para ayudar con un proyecto que es bastante imposible hacerlo solo, arrastrandose por el suelo duro, tratando deconsequir que cada parte recta y lisa". 
      
 SO MUCH easier with 4 of us!  (Google Translate: "Era mucho mas facil con quatro de nosotros!")                   


 Thank you thank you super GRACIAS, MIS AMIGAS!  You were generous with your time during a big festival week in Cuenca.  I appreciate your kindness.    Google translate says that's: Que Feuron muy generosos con su tiempo durante una semana de gran fiesta en Cuenca.  Le agradezco su amabilidad.        





I put the layered pinned quilt by my sewing machine to complete very soon. It was a job well done!  (Fue un trabajo bien hecho!)
I was really elated and really tired.  So the cat and I had a nice nap in the sunshine. I had sweet dreams. Tuve suenos dulces.

I worked on some other things the rest of the afternoon.

For dinner, Len bought fish - sea bass.  So I pulled a recipe out of "The Gloriously Gluten-Free Cookbook" by Vanessa Maltin (available on Amazon).  Let me recommend this book highly. It has Italian, Asian and Mexican recipes. Mi esposo has raved about everything I have prepared from this book.  It gets 5 stars from both of us in a rating system of 1-5.

Try making the tomato-basil bisque sometime - out of this world!  And soups are usually not safe for those who eat gluten free so this is all good.

Tonight's meal was a fresh, delicious dinner.  I tried using a recipe for salmon on the sea bass.  Let me go on record as someone who does not love fish.  I avoid it whenever possible but I know it is good for me, low fat, has beneficial oils, etc.  So we are trying to eat fish more often. And Ecuador makes that easier because it has delicious offerings fresh from the Pacific Ocean. This fish was delicate and delicious. 




 Lenny cooking the fish

The recipe included coconut rice, which I love.  It called for coconut milk. Since I have not yet sawed/whacked a coconut apart to try making fresh milk,  I experimented by putting dry shredded (unsweetened) coconut into the blender.  I added enough coconut water (bottled) to make the 2 cups the recipe called for.  I blended/pulverized that for about 40 seconds, adding more coconut water when the mixture became very thick.  Then it was looking good and tasted great. Although this method created milk that was a bit gritty, it blended into the jasmine rice/broth to produce a delicious dish.  




 rice cooking in coconut milk/broth mixture

The recipe also includes making a fresh papaya-cilantro salsa to top the fish.  This was a huge hit with Lenny as well as me.

 Papaya-cilantro salsa

  I added an avocado salad to complete the meal.





Here is a picture of our dinner.




Tomorrow I'm going to explore some of the Festival of the Arts that is in full swing in Cuenca this week.
LG= Life is good in Cuenca.  I am full of joy.